If you have a late-2011 A1297 17″ MacBook Pro, you cannot use a display intended for a 2010 model because in the 2011 model they moved one more antenna up into the display and therefore there is an extra coax cable on the 2011 model. Time to Repair (for me): 1 Hour 14 Minutes (which included taking pictures for this post) Clear tape (for taping the screws on the location they came from on the printed tutorial).T6 Torx Screwdriver (all the precision screwdrivers you’ll need for most electronic repairs here: Precision Screwdriver Set ).Late-2011 17″ Unibody MacBook Pro A1297 with 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7, Model MacbookPro8,3.
Extra memory for macbook pro 2011 late how to#
Here we go… How to Replace the Display on Late-2011 17-Inch Unibody MacBook Pro A1297 Hardware: So I normally don’t mirror the same repair that iFixit already has done, but in this case they are only showing you how to repair the pre-2011 models. iFixit has a tutorial on how to replace a 17″ MacBook Display but the late-2011 model I own is different than the one they feature. I don’t trust that as OEM quality so I opted to buy a used one in good condition. One thing to note is that there are people selling displays advertised as 95% new where I believe they have replaced the glass themselves. So, I opted to buy a good condition OEM display on ebay and swap out the entire thing.
I also didn’t want there to be any chance at there being dust or glass shards on the LCD display when I replaced it. I did see one guy (who cusses a lot and is quite disrespectful I might add) who used a Hakko FR-801 SMD Solder Rework Station which uses hot air and is very precise (compared to using a heat gun designed for paint removal) but I looked up that tool on ebay and it is a couple hundred dollars at least (with no accessories). So, overheating the area around the outside of the glass has a tendency of hardening and warping the rubber gasket.
The problem is that the glass is surrounded by a heat-sensitive rubber gasket that also is what cushions the display when you fold the display down onto the lower case. It turns out that the glass is installed with a very good adhesive, which must be heated in order to remove the broken glass. I accidentally dropped a scissors over my MacBook and it caught the very bottom edge of my display and shattered the glass in the lower left corner 🙁 This is my main work and personal computer, which I plan to sell at some point when I choose to upgrade, so I would be killing my resale value having a broken display, even though it was only the glass that was broken and it was just in the lower corner: Follow along as I replace the entire display assembly on my Late-2011 MacBook Pro.
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